Dispatches from the Baja Divide...Part 2
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January 11, 2022 - Todos Santos Bus Stop
Writers note: The below is directly from my journal that I wrote during the trip, with very little editing. Any commentary and additional info will be in italics. Re-reading this entry, it’s a little raw. My emotions were all over the place and that’s pretty evident when you read this. Please respect the fact that this is literally a journal entry that I’m choosing to share with the world.
Read Part 1 of the Dispatch here.
I’m currently waiting for the bus to La Paz from Todos Santos. I had a fitful night of sleep on the beach - the group showed up and I’m really not mad that I’m not riding with them. It really doesn’t seem like they’re having a good time - I’d much rather do things my way.
Slowly packing up camp after my friends had left. They had another 40 miles to go, so they were up and riding at 6am.
Watching the whales play in the ocean this morning and taking it nice slow.
I’m starting to think I might like bike touring more than bike packing. Give me the slow days and exploring by bike any day over crushing miles.
To give some context - to complete the 300 mile route in our allotted time, we needed to ride between 30-50 miles per day. During the planning phase, this seemed fine. In reality, it was absolutely not possible for my physical and mental level of preparedness.
Climbing up out of the beach in Todos Santos. I had already decided I’d be taking a bus to La Paz, so I dressed accordingly.
Mask use down here is wild - people wear them literally everywhere - even outside. I guess it makes sense with all the tourists and I have no clue the availability of vaccines.
I also need to get more $$ today - unexpectedly paying for a hotel and two bus rides ensured that 1500 pesos didn’t go very far.
Waiting for the bus in Todos Santos
My goals for today in La Paz are to find a hotel or hostel, unload my bike and just ride around. La Paz is known for whale sharks, so I would like to give that a try if possible. My hope is for this to be my last bus and then to ride the Eastern part of the loop. I need to relook at the route, but I think it’s doable.
Bike touring with cis-men I remember why I often don’t do it - there’s not a big community vibe and I get the feeling that these guys haven’t done a whole lot of touring with people of various speeds. I’m also remembering some feelings I had yesterday on the beach. There was a woman, about my age, maybe younger. She ran into the ocean in a tiny little bikini- watching her run back out, literally nothing on her body jiggled except for her ass.
I felt a super intense pang of jealousy - imagining what it would be like to be that carefree. Knowing that nobody was judging you but instead watching with awe and jealousy. Its one of those things where I doubt she even realizes her privilege in being able to do that.